Soak the mustard seed in the grape juice, mixing in the herbs thoroughly. Leave for 36-48 hours, topping up with a little extra liquid if necessary – the seeds should be just covered. Cover the jar or bowl but don't seal tightly.

Place in the food processor and whizz for 3 minutes, using the metal blade, then leave to stand for 3 hours. Reprocess for 5 minutes. Pour into a conical strainer (mesh size approximately 15 per inch/6 per cm) and with a plastic spatula work the paste through the strainer. Transfer the paste to a finer trainer (mesh size approximately 30 per inch/12 per cm), and repeat the process.

Spoon the mustard into small jars and store, out of direct light, for at least 2 weeks before using, preferably a month. We have found the flavour good for up to 4-5 months, but without the colour-reserving sulphur dioxide it goes dark quite quickly. Small jars help to reduce the oxidation. Makes 300-450 ml / ½-¾ pint, depending on the swelling powers of the seed, and the fineness of the sieve.

Now you have made your Dijon mustard, the world is your mustard pot, so to speak. You could, of course, cheat and use a bought Dijon to begin with.

Variations

To 300 ml/½ pint Dijon mustard, add for the following mustards:

Tarragon: 6-8 small sprigs (5cm/2in) fresh tarragon, finely chopped

Five-herb: 1 teaspoon each, finely chopped – parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives, shallots

Green pepper: 2-3 tablespoons green peppercorns, thoroughly drained from brine

Garlic-parsley: 2-3 garlic cloves, finely chopped, 2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped

Three-fruits red: 3 tablespoons fresh tomato purée, 1 tablespoon strawberry purée, 1 teaspoon cassis (it may sound mad, but it's a traditional mustard and very good)

Mint: 2-3 tablespoons fresh mint, very finely chopped

Orange and clove: replace half the soaking liquid with concentrated frozen orange juice, add ½ teaspoon finely ground cloves

Paprika: another traditional mustard – 2-3 tablespoons sweet paprika, but do know your paprika (in Hungary, there are six strengths, few of them available outside that country. Frequently it's either very hot or very sweet!).

Other exotic combinations are often on sale, such as banana and pimento
mustard, pineapple mustard, blueberry mustard. We leave you in the kitchen ...